Thursday, September 30, 2004

The $1,000 Eggplant Sandwich

Yes, you read that correctly. But this sandwich won't cost you $1,000; rather, it might make you $1,000 richer! How can this be, you ask?

Well, the folks at Chickpea Restaurant, a little falafel joint in the East Village, are so proud of their roasted eggplant sandwich that they're holding a contest to find the most appropriate name for it.

(And, in a touch of both generosity and marketing genius, Chickpea will allow you to enter the contest as many times as you desire!)

Chickpea Restaurant, 23 3rd Ave., (212) 254-9500. Send your entries to info@chickpearestaurant.com.
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Saturday, September 25, 2004

Stone Park Cafe

The "culinization" of Park Slope's 5th Avenue continues apace. What was once a dingy convenience store is now a sophisticated bistro, the Stone Park Cafe.

Lately, I've been feeling nostalgic for Park Slope (my old neighborhood), so I met a friend for dinner tonight at this wonderful brand new restaurant. It was only the cafe's second night of being open to the public, but the smooth service was that of a veteran restaurant.

My friend and I began with the rich, creamy baked polenta, which we dubbed the "macaroni and cheese" of polenta appetizers. It harbored little gems of roasted garlic cloves, mushrooms and tomatoes, and was topped with a bubbling, slightly browned, thick layer of Fontina. Good to the last spoonful!

Other appetizers on the menu included pan-seared bluefish cakes, a quesadilla, crab-stuffed shrimp, and spareribs. An octopus salad special, which was described as "between an appetizer and an entree", was decidedly in the small appetizer category. However, it was quite delicious: the tentacles of tender grilled octopus, served on heirloom tomato slices, were liberally spiced with black peppercorns and lightly dressed with lemon vinaigrette. I was still rather hungry after the salad, and wondered if I should have ordered the pan-seared halibut.

My friend reveled in her "Newport steak sandwich." The thick white bread was sufficiently sturdy for the very tender meat, which was draped with caramelized onions. Melted Vermont cheddar provided an extra tasty detail.

Among the desserts were a lemon cake with fresh berries and honeyed goat cheese, a chocolate brioche pudding with whiskey ice cream, and a peach-blueberry cobbler. We opted for the truly amazing double chocolate souffle. The souffle was cooked to order and was worth the wait. I cannot even describe how chocolatey it was; I can only tell you that it was made of dark chocolate with an 80% cocoa content!

Prices were very reasonable; the steak sandwich was $11 and our bottle of red wine was $19. I have high hopes for the restaurant's maintaining its winning formula of creative, high-quality food at Brooklyn prices.

Now I have yet another reason to visit my old neighborhood!

Stone Park Cafe: 324 5th Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 369-0082.


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Tuesday, September 21, 2004

Red Jacket Orchards

It's officially autumn, time to go apple picking! But if you can't find the time to go out to Wilkens Fruit & Fir Farm, just head over to the Union Square Greenmarket on a Monday. You'll breathe in a delicious apple aroma as you walk towards the Red Jacket Orchards stand. At the front of the tent, you'll see a table covered with different varieties of apples cut to sample. The apples have mouthwatering names like Honey Crisp and Ginger Gold. Each bin is labeled with a delightful bit of trivia; for example, did you know that the Empire apple was developed in 1966?

Later, after you've purchased a 5-lb. bag of apples (a steal at $3.50), bake me a pie and I'll be right over!
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Sunday, September 19, 2004

Le Zoccole

Hearth, with its 28-person waiting list, was not an option tonight. Fortunately, the East Village abounds with excellent, reasonable Italian restaurants, and I was happy to make a reservation at Le Zoccole for a dinner with friends.

After a brief seating snafu, we secured a comfortable table. We then munched on a basket of warm tomato onion focaccia as we perused the menu. The specials included a several types of raw oysters, a skate entree, and a 10-oz. ribeye over garlic mashed potatoes.

We started with some Merlot Kasher Cantina 2002, and continued with the cicchetti (Venetian tapas), a tray loaded with 11 small plates of appetizers. Our favorites were a delectable grilled sardine, soft polenta triangles, fried olives, calamari, and a garlicky salad of cubed octopus, cucumbers and tomatoes. (We were less fond of the rather tasteless stewed beans, but many delicious flavors counteracted them.)

Our entrees were a truffled macaroni and cheese, a pici (hand-rolled ricotta pasta) and a chicken "porchetta". The macaroni and cheese, which arrived in a bowl sprinkled with nutmeg, was fabulously cheesy with pecorino and mozzarella and creamy with ricotta. Although its advertised truffle oil was not much in evidence, I think it would be difficult to find a more satisfying mac 'n' cheese anywhere. The pici (of which a great rendition can also be found at Via Emilia) was a lighter, vegetable-laden pasta dish. The pasta curls were tossed with artichokes, string beans and asparagus. The porchetta, a huge slow-roasted half chicken, was surprisingly rich, slathered with some sort of garlicky butter and served with potatoes, cherry tomatoes and a few sprigs of greens.

The restaurant had now become quite crowded, and when dessert pangs struck, it was difficult to grab the attention of our (very charming) waitress. When we did finally locate her, she sweetly offered us free desserts for our patience. Of course we were thrilled! (Unfortunately, we all wanted the same dessert, so I only tried one kind.) The cioccolatissimo indeed lived up to its superlative. With the touch of a spoon, a gooey hot chocolate mousse oozed forth from its graham cracker surroundings. The whole delicious mess was coated with even more melted chocolate, which converted the accompanying gelato into a satisfying vanilla swirl. Crunchy biscotti completed the dreamy experience.

Le Zoccole: 95 Ave. A, (212) 260-6660.
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Saturday, September 18, 2004

Sweets News

Here are your Sweets News Stories for September 18, 2004:

The incomparable Beard Papa Fresh 'N' Natural Cream Puffs has indeed opened a new location as of yesterday. You can now indulge in vanilla, green tea, caramel, coffee, or chocolate cream puffs at 740 Broadway (212-353-8888). Enjoy!

A delightful new sweets and bubble tea shop, Cassava Tea, opened up on Tuesday. Tapioca tea and intriguing fruit jelly teas (gingered honey apple, peach lychee) are available, as are various pastries. You'll find Cassava Tea at 474 6th Ave.

The most excellent caramel shortbread cookies, courtesy of One Girl Cookies, are among the many sweet treats offered at Joe (141 Waverly Place, 212-924-6750), a little coffeehouse that is fast becoming my favorite, due to its perfectly foamy cappuccino.
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Saturday, September 11, 2004

Picnic NYC

As summer draws to a close, you might realize that you've let the whole season go by without enjoying one of NYC's great pleasures: a picnic in Central Park.

I myself had this very epiphany while walking down gritty Chrystie Street last night. I don't know exactly why I turned my head near a sign advertising "gas burner parts and supplies," but I'm so glad I did; if I hadn't, I wouldn't have noticed the Picnic NYC food shop. (It's easy to miss.)

The small, bright store is a sight for sore eyes in the middle of all the industrial supplies dealers. Shelves and countertops overflow with many kinds of locally-produced fruit chutneys, cookies, quickbreads and other goodies. There is a serving dish piled high with mini ham and cheese quiches and a tray full of Nutella panini. There is also a small but wonderful selection of cheeses (Piave, Appenzeller, spicy Gorgonzola Picante) from Artisanal Cheese Shop. Tonight, the gracious proprietor, Lex, offered me a taste of the Gorgonzola and I almost bought a pound right there.

Soon, however, my attentions were distracted by the most extraordinary bread-and-butter pickles. Slightly sweet, spicy with hot pepper and pungent with cumin, they were a many-flavored revelation. They could easily put Vlasic out of business forever. But don't take my word for it: attend one of Picnic NYC's weekly pickle tastings! You have three more chances: September 16, 23 and 30 from 6-8 p.m.

Lex was happy to answer any questions I had, and she could describe each product in impressive detail, from its origins to its ingredients. It was gratifying for me to know that I was supporting a cookie baker from Poughkeepsie and a quickbread maker from Long Island.

Central Park is 51 blocks long, so you'll have plenty of room to spread out your luxurious feast. Fill your basket with Picnic NYC's sandwiches, cheese, pickles and cookies, and enjoy the slight breeze as you watch the September sun begin to wane.

Picnic NYC Inc.: 187 Chrystie St., (212) 420-0028.

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Friday, September 10, 2004

A Maitake Dinner

The amazing maitake (otherwise known as hen-of-the-woods) mushroom sometimes grows to be over 50 pounds. It is indigenous to Japan, and is highly regarded for its immune-boosting effects.

This mushroom also happens to be so tasty that Kasuza Japanese Restaurant (Note: renamed Tatany 72 as of mid-2005) has decided to feature a special "Maitake Dinner." The dinner consists of a tempura-battered maitake, a rice and maitake dish, miso soup, a daily side dish, and Japanese pickles.

Tatany 72: 1400 2nd Ave., (212) 472-1700.
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Thursday, September 09, 2004

Oatmeal Chocolate Chunk or Pumpkin Spice?

Your taste in cookies is a weightier matter than you might think.
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Sunday, September 05, 2004

Edible Artwork: Lollipops, M&M's and Ice Cream Cones

The Humble Masterpieces exhibit at MOMA Queens reveals these interesting food factoids:

  • Lollipops, which originated in Spain, were conceived as a candy that children could eat without dirtying their hands. The treats were called Chupa Chups, and Salvador Dali drafted their original daisy-patterned wrapper in 1969.
  • During the Spanish Civil War, Forrest Mars Sr. encountered soldiers who were enjoying an intriguing treat: small chocolates encased in a meltproof sugar coating. Inspired by this discovery, Mr. Mars created M&M's.
  • Italo Marchioni, a Wall Street ice cream vendor, invented the ice cream cone in 1895. His intention was to reduce overhead caused by lost or broken serving dishes.
If you don't have a chance to visit MOMA before Sept. 27, when it closes to prepare for relocation to Manhattan, you'll find many more interesting sweets-related tidbits in Sweets: A History Of Candy.
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Friday, September 03, 2004

The Spotted Pig

It was 7:15 p.m. when I arrived at the Spotted Pig, and the crowd of people milling about the entrance was forbiddingly large. I'd heard about the legendary wait to get in, so I hoped I was early enough to put my name down for an 8 p.m. dinner. Fortunately, the wait ended up being exactly 45 minutes; when my friends arrived at 8, the best table opened up. The best table (in my opinion), is the cozy banquette next to the herb windowbox. The room is rather cramped and noisy, and many of the other seats are barstools or chairs squeezed into the space around a brick pillar.

Once we were settled into our table, we munched on olives and almonds, and took stock of the impressive beer menu. Our choices were a creamy Old Speckled Hen, a Pilsner and a raspberry lambic.

The casual atmosphere belied the exquisite food that was to come. Our waitress informed us that organic and seasonal ingredients were used whenever possible, and the appetizer list was full of garden goodies like a red and golden beet salad dressed with horseradish and olive oil, and bruschetta topped with young chanterelles. We ordered the gnudi : five plump ricotta pillows accented with fried sage leaves in the richest butter sauce. We then devoured the duck-egg appetizer, a halved egg soft-boiled until the yellow was slightly creamy, which was nested on a bed of peppery arugula with black olives and heirloom and grape tomatoes.

Entrees were another exercise in bliss: the grilled bass had nicely blackened skin, and was accompanied by a tumble of delicately grilled vegetables: candy-sweet cherry tomatoes and caramelized eggplant. A juicy char-grilled skirt steak came with a chili-spiked two-pepper ratatouille. A wild heap of crisp, well-salted shoestring fries interspersed with rosemary leaves was an addictive side order.

For dessert, the waitress recommended the vanilla ice cream with a choice of blueberries or strawberries. We chose the latter; the fruit was made slightly tangy with a splash of balsamic vinegar. We also indulged in a healthy slice of chocolate bourbon nousse cake with crème fraiche. The French press Danesi coffee was fabulous.

When we finally filed out of the restaurant, there were still people waiting to get in!

The Spotted Pig: 314 West 11th St., (212) 620-0393.

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Thursday, September 02, 2004

Tomato Treats

The tomato harvest is beginning to find its way into desserts around town! The other night at Cacio E Pepe (182 2nd Ave., 212-505-5931), I spied a green tomato strudel with basil sorbet, and just now I noticed the crumble-topped almond-tomato cake at Financier Patisserie (62 Stone St. , 212-344-5600). "How is that cake," I asked a waiter. "Very good, and sweet," he replied. "The tomato is a fruit, you know."

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